Forgotten Backyard
Travel is and always will be part of our lifestyle. I don’t know a surfer that hasn´t travelled in the search of waves, new cultures, new beer or new companionship.
In my case, I travel to my working place in the winters stopping over in a place named Ecuador.
Due to the length or how rushy it is, in the last few years I haven´t stayed in Ecuador more than 48 hours were I went to my home town, visited my mom’s grave, drank a few beers with my buddies or checked my investments.
When we arrived in Ecuador last Nov., my friend Daniel picked us up at the airport in Guayaquil and his first question was: Do you want to go for surf?
I said yes.
(My friend Daniel)
While I was in the water ( 1 and a half hour later ), a special feeling came to my heart.
I felt like it was 100 years ago that I had been surfing in the Ecuadorian waters.
That night, I checked my work agenda for the Galapagos Islands and I realised that it wasn’t necessary for us to rush to the islands.
(Fisherman in Mompiche)
Before my arrival, I did have the idea to check out some towns in Ecuador. I guess that first session triggered the need to do this trip.
(A beautiful day in Quito)
Travelling in Ecuador is not easy. Roads are full of holes. Drivers do not respect the transit laws and in my case, my family thought that I was crazy by going to “hang “in Ecuador instead of being with them.
As soon as you are outside the cities, Ecuador is an incredible place with a unique mix of sceneries, landscapes and people.
(Indian woman in Otavalo)
The weather changes a lot depending where you are at. I recommend visiting the place from Nov. until May.
Driving along the coast, the highlands, the jungles you also realize that this country has it all. Valleys, mountains, incredible beaches, friendly people, lakes, WAVES, entertainment, art, history, volcanoes, various cultures and the list can go on and on.
(Inca-museum near Puerto Lopez, love the art!;-))
While we were travelling, I kept in contact with Daniel. One night, he said: “Eddie, get you ass down here as soon as you can. It is going to hit us hard”
The 1st swell of the season was less than 24 hours away. Time to wax the boards!
(San Mateo pumpin´)
Next morning, after a bumpy flight from Quito to Manta, I was at Ecuador’s longest lefthander, San Mateo.
I had forgotten how long that thing is!
1 mile of perfection. When you finish your ride, you feel like being a marathon guy. It hurts!
All day, I surfed a place that I had not surfed since the year 2000. I used to surf it a lot when I was a kid and let me tell you guys: What a view….
(Me surfing San Mateo)
Late that afternoon, I talked to several friends along the Ecuadorian coast and listened to the surf reports. The entire coast was pumping!
Salinas was solid, Puerto Kayo was out of control, my home town was closing out and I heard that Mompiche was Square due of the sand banks created after 6 months of no NW swells hitting the reef.
(Me surfing Mompiche-barrels)
Easy call: Less than 20 minutes later, I was on my way.
Remember the holed roads?
Shit brothers, my back was almost destroyed.
We got there at night. My cousins and some of my best friends were there.
One little problem: No accommodation available. Needed to share a cabin with all of them!
Histories of the earlier barrels with some farts in between were my good night stories.
Barrel city!!
Indo is Indo, Mompiche is Mompiche.
The easiest place in Ecuador to get shade from the tropical sun.
This swell lasted 4 days. Everyone was talking about how epic it was.
Bla, bla, bla.
For me this trip was an incredible experience, not only because of the swell, but also to have the opportunity to get back to my roots, live my country once again and it made me remember who I am and where I want to go.
Enjoy the pictures!
(Graveyard in Ecuador)
(The flora of Ecuador)
(On my way out in Mompiche)
(More flowers..)
(Festival in the capital, Quito)
(Indian woman sleeping in the streets of Baños in the Andes)
(Ecuadorian art)
(Time for some lunch at the market in Otavalo)
(Mompiche)
(Mompiche)
(Equator)
(Arts in Canoa)
(A friends house)